A Creature of Habit

The TIFF program book is sitting on my desk, and my office smells of fresh print, which means I'll be eating at Arby's today. Why? Because three years ago I grabbed my program book when I left for lunch and happened to flip through it while eating curly fries and a ham sandwich. And the next year I did the same thing. And now it's a habit -- one of the many TIFF-related rituals I observe each summer.

Others? After checking into my hotel on Thursday afternoon, I immediately walk to a crappy pizza place on Yonge and eat a slice while people-watching. After lunch, I pick up my tickets, thumb through the thick stack, and then buy some groceries in the bottom floor of College Park. I always carry the same old leather bag throughout the fest and meticulously squirrel away used tickets in one of its front pockets. My favorite habit is walking slowly to morning movies at the ScotiaBank, arriving just a few minutes before the screening time, and grabbing a cup of coffee on the way into the theater. These, I have to admit, are some of the most satisfying moments in my life.

Come to think of it, most of my habits are food-related, and they're all as essential to my TIFF experience as the movies are, probably because they often involve conversations with old friends. I always eat at least one meal with Girish at Zyng. I always grab a chicken shawarma at St. Patrick Market. I always run into Andrew and Moen at the food court in Village by the Grange. (I'll always associate the taste of pho with the Cinematheque Ontario.) Late in the week, I always end up at Fran's, exhausted and incoherent, after another 4- or 5-film day.

Anyone else have TIFF rituals?

Fran's

Fran's Restaurant has its own Wikipedia entry. A "Toronto Tradition" (their words, not mine) for nearly 70 years, Fran's is a classic, 24-hour diner that serves up massive plates of diner food: burgers, fries, omelettes, waffles, soup, chili, sandwiches, and every variety of fried food. And booze.

Best of all, the College Street location is right in the heart of downtown -- just north of College Park (directly across the street, in fact) and only a block or two from several popular hotels, including the Days Inn and Delta Chelsea. I've eaten at least once at Fran's every time I've been to Toronto. It's a great place to drink coffee and read the paper on a lazy morning, and a perfect spot to talk film late into the night.

One tip: If you go for breakfast, get the home fries. You won't need to eat for the rest of the day.

Updated Map

Here's an updated version of the map that Larry McClelland and I put together for TIFF '07. (Click to see a hi-rez version.) I've added the AMC 24 and removed the ROM. The dining suggestions are all courtesy of Larry.

A word of advice to first-timers: Unless they've dramatically overhauled their materials, the map you'll receive from TIFF sucks. You'll save yourself time and frustration by printing out a copy of this map or the one at TIFF Talk.

Rather than create a new post, I've just updated last year's, which explains why there are year-old comments below.

Blog TO's Best of . . . Restaurant Series

Blog TO is my favorite source of information about goings-on in downtown Toronto. Over the past year-and-a-half they've assembled a series of "Best Of" posts covering 40 or 50 topics, many of them food-related:

• The Best Falafel in Toronto
• The Best Tea in Toronto
• The Best Farmers' Markets in Toronto
• The Best Pubs in Toronto
• The Best Cupcakes in Toronto
• The Best Baked Treats in Toronto
• The Best Sandwiches in Toronto
• The Best Thai Restaurants in Toronto
• The Best Tapas In Toronto
• The Best Bread in Toronto
• The Best of the Newer Cheap Eats Restaurants in Toronto
• The Best Late Night Chinese Food in Toronto
• The Best Crepes in Toronto
• The Best Juice Bars in Toronto
• The Best Health Food Stores in Toronto
• The Best Pizza in Toronto
• The Best Burger in Toronto
• The Best Fish Stores in Toronto
• The Best Gelato in Toronto
• The Best Indian Restaurants in Toronto
• The Best Ice Cream in Toronto
• The Best Cafes in Toronto (East Side)
• The Best Oysters in Toronto
• The Best Cafes in Toronto (West Side)
• The Best Pho In Toronto
• The Best Fish & Chips in Toronto
• The Best Latin American Restaurants in Toronto
• The Best Burritos in Toronto
• The Best Butcher Shops in Toronto
• The Best Splurge Sushi in Toronto
• The Best Cheap Sushi in Toronto
• The Best Chocolate in Toronto
• The Best Brunch in Toronto
• The Best Vegetarian Restaurants in Toronto
• The Best New Restaurants in Toronto, 2007

Ethiopian Dinner, Part 2

I'm going to suggest Monday 9/10 at 7:00-7:30 for a group meal. I know it won't work for everyone (including Girish, right?), but with the Wavelengths programs bunched up on opening weekend, I'm not sure when else we can fit it in.

Here's another suggestion: Last year several of us met for dinner on the last night of the fest, too. It's a very different experience then. As Rob Davis once put it (and I've been quoting him ever since), "I wish there were more movies; that God there are no more movies." It looks like my fest will wrap up with Sad Vacation around 7:30. Anyone who wants to join me for a round or two, leave that spot open.

Dinner, Anyone?

In 2004, near the end of the festival, some friends and I met at an Ethiopian restaurant on Queen Street, ate ourselves silly, and spent two or three hours talking about all of the films we'd seen. Last year we did it again, renewing what we hope will become a tradition. For the sake of convenience, we met last time at Ethiopia House, which is just off of Yonge, right in the heart of TIFF'ville, and we had a pretty good turnout. I think there were ten of us. There's something about the hands-on-ness of Ethiopian food that makes it especially communal. All of the reaching and ripping and sharing.

Until the full schedule is announced and we've all had some time to map out our days, it'll be difficult to finalize a date and time. I know several people are only coming for the first five or six days of the fest, so I'd prefer to do it early. And since there are two Wavelengths programs back-to-back on both Saturday and Sunday, I'm thinking that the first Friday night might work. If not then, we'll probably have to wait until Monday or Tuesday.

If you're interested in coming, leave a comment or send me an email. And if you want to come, give me an idea of when you'll be in Toronto. We won't be able to accommodate everyone, unfortunately, but the more the merrier.

Good Eats

Last year at TIFF, Girish introduced me to his friend Andrew, a kind, soft-spoken Torontoan who's something of a fixture at the Cinematheque. When I become depressed by the sad state of film culture in the American South, I live vicariously through Andrew, who, over the last decade, has sat through complete retrospectives of Ozu, Imamura, Rivette, and who knows how many other great directors as their films have worked their way through Jackman Hall. After launching this site, I bothered Andrew for a local's perspective on favorite places to eat, and he kindly passed along the following:

Here are the ones that I've frequented over the years and a few more that I've recently discovered.

*Cheap (under 10 bucks); **Moderate (10 to 20 bucks)

Northwest
Minutes from Cumberland 4, ROM and Isabel Bader.

*China Garden Restaurant
200 Bloor Street West (located on the north side across from the ROM, up a flight of stairs). Lunch special is $4.95 which includes a pop. Dinner for one is $7.99. Fast service. In and out in under 40 minutes. Order what you want and the way you want it. 11-10 on weekdays; 11:30-10 on weekends. Next door on the same level is Booster Juice for fruit juices and smoothies.
Subway Stop: Museum

Northeast
Minutes from Varsity

**Eggstasy Diner & Grill
1255 Bay St. (between Cumberland St. & Yorkville Ave. on the east side) Newly opened. Thirteen different omelets, wraps, fajitas, twelve different sandwiches, freshly made burgers, grilled chicken, grilled steaks and home-cut fries. Average price of a meal with a tip: $11 to $12 bucks.
Subway Stop: Bay

*Flo's Diner
70 Yorkville Ave (on the north side near Bay & Yorkville). Located on the second floor you go up a spiral staircase from street level. They have 50's style booths inside or sit on the patio under large umbrellas. All day breakfast, burgers, salads & deserts. Two eggs with bacon, ham or sausage with home fries, bagel or toast: $6.95. Flo's feature specials range from mixed berry pancakes $8.50 to $12.95 for Spaghetti bolognese. Known for their ice cream sodas, shakes & floats. Open 7:30 am - 10:00 pm weekdays, 8:00 am - 10:00 pm Saturdays and 9:00 am - 8:00 pm Sundays. Takeout menu available.
Subway Stop: Bay

*Crepes A GoGo
18 Yorkville Avenue (at Yorkville & Yonge, across from the Toronto Reference Library) Newly opened at this location Crepes A GoGo is run by Veronique Perez, a Parisian born filmmaker. Forget that you're in Anglo Toronto. All of her staff speak French and Perez encourages her customers to practise their rusty Francais. During TIFF Veronique tells me they will have film projections from her side of the street onto a wall on the opposite side. Worth checking out! At the front she has a large outdoor area for seating. But lets not forget the food. Her crepes are the best quality for price that you can get anywhere in the city. They are stuffed with a wide range of fillings starting at $4.25. Open from 11:00 Monday to Friday and from 10:00 Saturday & Sunday. Not sure about closing times during the festival.
Subway Stop: Yonge & Bloor

*Zyng Asian Grill
730 Yonge Street (at Charles next to Second Cup) Create your own meal for $7.49 plus tax: 1 sauce + 1 protein (Beef, Shrimp, Grilled Chicken Breast, Tofu or Zoya) + 1 choice of noodle or rice + choice of vegetables includes a non-alcoholic beverage.
Subway Stop: Yonge & Bloor

*Oja Noodle House
689 Yonge Street (across the street from Zyng Asian Grill). Covers Korean, Japanese, Chinese & Thai cuisine. Large portions and fast service. Prices & quality make this one of the best kept secrets in Toronto. Open 11:30 - 11 everyday.
Subway Stop: Yonge & Bloor

Southeast
Minutes from Ryerson Theatre

There are many cheap eats in the vicinity of the theatre on both Church St. and especially on Yonge St. but personally I would not risk them. However, there is a viable option. Prior to, that is, getting off at College St. Subway station, or immediately after a screening at Ryerson you can stroll over to College Park (Between Gerrard & College Streets on the West side) location of the Festival Box Office on the lower level next to the food court you will find Dominion Food Store. At the "Fresh 2 Go" counter they have sandwiches for $3.49, Wraps $3.99, salads starting at $3.69. Stone baked pizza is $2.49 a slice. Combos are as such: Soup, Sandwich & Beverage $5.99, Wrap, chips & beverage $5.49 & Baguette, chips & Beverage $5.29. Good value and truly fresh to go. You can eat in the food court or take it with you as you bolt for your next film.
Subway Stop: College

Further South
Minutes from Paramount/Scotiabank Centre, Elgin/Visa Screening Room

*Queen St. Patrick Market
238 Queen St. W. (east of John St. on the North Side) A number of vendors share these narrow confines. High round tables located up the centre isle to eat on while standing. LouLou's Shawarma & Falafel (right to the back) and the Gourmet Pizza are the best of the lot while Sandwich Box (at the front), Burrito Mexican Grill, and Greek Food are also good. LouLou's offers 2 falafel sandwiches for $6.99 while Gourmet Pizza offers two slices from $3.25 to $3.99. Good place to pop in when short of time between screenings. Most vendors are open quite late as they get a lot of traffic off of Queen St. at night.
Subway Stop: Osgoode

**Little India Restaurant
255 Queen St. W. (at Duncan & Queen). Recommended by Girish. Daily Lunch Buffet is from 11:30 -3:00 for $8.95. India Palace Restaurant next door offers the same deal.
Subway Stop: Osgoode

*Village by the Grange
575 Dundas St. W. (West entrance across from AGO & Jackman Hall on McCaul Street) This has always been Cinematheque Ontario members' refuelling station. Some very good choices here. My favourite is Helena's Magic Kitchen run by a Korean couple. Boy can they cook! Polish food never tasted so good and this is coming from a Pole. Helena's open early for lunch and close around 7:00 pm. My favorite on the menu is sweet potato pie with two side salads for $5.99. Another sure bet is Island Foods (West Indian Foods). The best rotis I've tasted any where in T.O. Open Mon-Fri 11-9. Closed on Weekends. Rotis range in price form $4 for potato to $6.25 for Shrimp. My favorite is the spinach for $4.25. I can also recommend Mary's Greek Souviaki Plate, Sakura 'Japanese', Pita Village 'Turkish' & Red Red Noodles 'Vietnamese'.
Subway Stop: St. Patrick

Now if you're with friends, have a few hours respite from the Festival and are looking for excellent food with a good atmosphere you owe it to yourself to check out Baldwin Street. Located two blocks north of the AGO, West off of McCaul:

**St. John's Italian Cafe is the most popular while Margaritas 'Mexican', Cafe la Gabbe & Bocca's are also well known. All stay open late.

Ten Places to Go in T.O.

(by Girish.)

It's devilishly hard to keep the list down to ten, so forgive me if I do some cramming and cheat a little:

1. Cinematheque Ontario. Alas, it's not in season during TIFF but this is the place that draws me most to Toronto and I just had to begin with a coup de chapeau to it.

2. Little India. On Queen Street, and probably my favorite Indian restaurant in Toronto. It's quite small, and monstrously popular, so I'd suggest lunch either early (11:30-ish) or late (2:00-ish). For a whole cornucopia of Indian food, I'd recommend a trip to the Indian section of town on Garrard Street East. For about three blocks, you could swear you were in the middle of Mumbai.

3. Bookstores: Andrew Tracy hipped me to this chain called BMV (Books Music Videos) that carries discounted merhandise and tons of it. I've been to 2 locations, one off Yonge near Dundas and the other at Yonge and Eglinton. I also recommend a great used-book shop called Eliot's on Yonge near Wellesley for books on art, film, music, etc.

4. College Street West: Adam Nayman turned me on to this books-and-music zone which includes stores like She Said Boom. I've been here just once and scarcely skimmed the surface. I'll be trying to squeeze in a visit during TIFF.

5. The Beguiling: Seriously: the best indie comics shop I've been to in North America and I've been to a few. If you're an indie comics aficionado, leave your credit card at home and take a budgeted amount of cash. You've been warned. Also, close by is one of the largest video stores in the city, Suspect Video.

6. The Art Gallery of Ontario (AGO). The gallery is only partially open because of construction but it'll be running exhibits of Chuck Close and Bernini during TIFF.

7. The Rex. Top-flight music club hosting the best in local Toronto jazz. Very often, there's not even a cover charge. Good food and beer selections. On Queen St., close to Little India.

8. Two More Great Bookstores: (a) Pages on Queen St., not far from the Rex; and (b) Theater Books, a stone's throw from the Varsity and Cumberland theaters. Great selection of film books at both places.

9. The Film Reference Library. Affiliated with the TIFF group. You can't borrow anything but you can watch videos and DVDs from their large collection (lots of rare and unreleased stuff) and consult books and back issues of periodicals. Recommended from their collection (and unavailable in the US): Claire Denis's U.S. Go Home and Olivier Assayas's Cold Water.

10. The NFB Mediatheque. For two bucks, you can get comfy in a large plush chair/viewing station and call up any of the hundreds of films produced by the National Film Board of Canada. The last time I was there, I caught Gilles Groulx's Le Chat Dans Le Sac (1964). My next trip will likely feature some Arthur Lipsett. Located close to the Scotiabank Theatres used by TIFF.

Your suggestions and tips for fun places to go in Toronto? Perhaps we can build ourselves a little trove of ideas here. Thank you!

College Park (Updated for 2008)

Note: College Park is no longer home to a festival box office. It has been replaced by the new office at Toronto Life Square at 10 Dundas Street East, which is where advanced ticket orders can be picked up.

There's decent grocery store on the lower level of College Park, which is a nice convenience given its close proximity to so many downtown hotels (one block from the Days Inn and Delta Chelsea).

Subway Stop: College